57-year-old Juriah Saian started Gubok Pawon with her husband to preserve the traditional custom of serving food on a large tray. (Bernama pic)
BATU PAHAT: As age-old customs are quietly forgotten, one husband-and-wife duo in Kampung Parit Yaani Tengah here have taken it upon themselves to revive a cherished Javanese-Malay tradition – serving nasi ambeng on a communal tray – and turn it into their livelihood.
At Gubok Pawon, which means “charcoal kitchen hut” in Javanese, 57-year-old Juriah Saian and her husband Arsad Bardan, 62, prepare the dish in a rustic wooden hut designed to resemble an old Malay village home – a setting far removed from the bustle of town life.
“These days, it’s hard to find this tradition because many of our elders are no longer with us,” Juriah told Bernama recently.
“When I started this business, many customers told me how much they enjoyed eating in a village atmosphere. It brings back memories, especially among those who miss this kind of environment.”
For the Javanese community, serving nasi ambeng on a large tray is not merely about feeding guests – it represents togetherness, gratitude and communal harmony: values that lie at the heart of Javanese culture.
Juriah’s nasi ambeng follows a family recipe passed down through generations. (Bernama pic)
“If we can’t finish everything, the leftovers are usually taken home for the whole family to enjoy. We call that nasi berkat,” Juriah explained.
“Even if the dish wasn’t particularly tasty, what mattered most was abundance – a generous spread served on one tray,” she addedwith a laugh. “The head of the family would usually taste just a little, and the rest would be taken home as nasi berkat.”
Her nasi ambeng, she said, follows a family recipe passed down through generations, complete with “must-have” accompaniments – serunding, Javanese sambal goreng, fried noodles, bulu ayam salted fish, and either soy-braised chicken or ungkep, a slow-cooked Javanese classic.
Ungkep is served exclusively at Gubok Pawon and prepared only upon order, with each tray feeding four to six people. The couple also caters for private functions.
Since opening in August, orders have been brisk, with bookings already filled up to early this month.
For the mother of four, the business is more than a source of income: it is her way of honouring the heritage of her ancestors, a legacy she fears may disappear with time.
The food is served communal style, with the eatery designed to resemble a traditional Malay village home. (Bernama pic)
Meanwhile, heavily pregnant with her first child, 26-year-old Nur Farra Fazliana Jasmani recently held a thanksgiving ceremony and the traditional “melenggang perut” ritual at Gubok Pawon.
To her, the experience felt special, even though she is not of Javanese descent.
“When I learnt about this tradition, I wanted to experience it for myself,” she told Bernama. “After the ceremony, everyone eats together from the same tray. It strengthens bonds and brings people closer.”
Nur Farra said she intends to continue practising this tradition in the future, following the customs of her husband’s Javanese family.
Follow Gubok Pawon on TikTok.
This content is gold. Thank you so much!
It’s refreshing to find something that feels honest and genuinely useful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in such a clear way.