(L-R) Christine Yeow, her father Steven Yeow, her mother Bong Kim Yen and her brother Alex Yeow are the third and fourth generations running Chang Ke Fang Restaurant. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)
PETALING JAYA: Every so often, you stumble upon a rare gem of an eatery. Chang Ke Fang Restaurant is one such place.
A large mango tree and a star fruit tree front the restaurant, both planted by the eatery’s founder, a Hainanese woman named Chu Xuan. Like the business, these trees have stood the test of time with remarkable resilience.
“This shop was established in 1961, so, it’s about 64 years now. It was started by my great-grandmother,” said Christine Yeow, 30.
Christine runs the business alongside her father, Steven Yeow, her mother, Bong Kim Yen, and her younger brother, Alex.
Inside, the eatery is simple and delightfully old-school. Vintage tiles, marble-top tables and old photos hang on the walls, adding a nostalgic vibe. And you’ll smile when you spot a signboard with the message: “Zero Wi-Fi. Talk to each other. Pretend it’s 1961”.
For over six decades, each generation of this family has worked hard to keep the business alive. Steven, for instance, took over after his father’s passing, running the eatery with his wife.
Father-daughter duo Steven and Christine work hand in hand to keep their family’s legacy alive. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)
In 2021, Christine joined her parents, and this year, her brother followed suit.
Reflecting on her decision, Christine, who once worked in the pharmaceutical industry, said: “My dad was admitted to hospital, and the doctor advised him to rest more. So, I decided to join the business. I also felt it would be a waste if this restaurant had to close down.”
In the early days, Chu Xuan served Hainan bread with half-boiled eggs and coffee, yong tau foo, chee cheong fun and noodles. Christine shared that her grandmother chose not to serve pork, as many Malay families lived nearby.
Today, Christine and her family have expanded their offerings to include chicken rice, char kuey teow, and fried rice, among others. Their food, Christine shared, is MSG-free.
The Hainan bread, generously spread with kaya and margarine, pairs perfectly with the creamy soft-boiled eggs. This pairing is best enjoyed with a cup of Hainan kopi – a robust blend of coffee, tea, evaporated milk and condensed milk.
Start the day right with the classic Malaysian breakfast of Hainan bread, soft-boiled eggs and Hainan kopi. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)
The char kuey teow boasts a lovely wok hei without being too greasy, while the chicken rice features fluffy, fragrant rice and tender meat.
The Popo Kantin Curry Noodles, Christine revealed, is a crowd favourite. Made using Chu Xuan’s recipe, the broth is rich and flavourful, making this perfect on a rainy day.
The yong tau foo and chee cheong fun are equally comforting – both are served in a sweet-savoury sauce, also Chu Xuan’s recipe.
According to Christine, “Chang Ke Fang” means “loyal customers” and true to its name, many patrons have remained faithful over the years. During FMT Lifestyle’s visit, there was a steady stream of customers of various races, young and old.
Christine also shared that generations of their family once lived at the back of the shop. “Some customers like to joke that they used to see my brother and me playing and fighting when we were small. They even remember us running around in our diapers,” said Christine with a smile.
Steven, 59, recalled witnessing how much the neighbourhood had changed over the years. “Back then, it was all jungle outside. University Hospital was not built yet. Over time, houses were constructed in the area,” he said.
Tuck into local favourites: (clockwise from centre) Popo Kantin Curry Noodles, yong tau foo and chee cheong fun, char kuey teow and chicken rice. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)
While the neighbourhood has evolved, the food remains the same – simple, unpretentious and satisfying, embodying the best of Malaysian cuisine.
In an age of fast trends and fleeting encounters, Chang Ke Fang stands as a gentle reminder of the beauty of tradition.
It’s a place where time seems to slow down, conversations flow freely as phones are forgotten – and every bite tells a story that began over 60 years ago.
Chang Ke Fang Restaurant
45, Jalan Dato Mahmud 11/4
46200 Petaling Jaya
Selangor
For location, click here.
Operation hours:
7am-4pm (Monday-Friday)
7am-3pm (Saturday)
Closed on Sunday
Contact: 012-629 7836
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